You can find Blacklock in a basement on Great Windmill Street decked out in a suitably cool, modern industrial style. It follows a recent restaurant trend of doing one thing and doing it well. In this case, meat.

The Blacklock space was once an illegal strip club and the meat market heritage has remained — no veggie options here. Picking the meat for a roast is always something we struggle with but Blacklock had us covered. Their ‘All In’ roast comes with 55 Day Aged Rump, Cornish Lamb Leg, Middlewhite Pork Loin and all the trimmings (sauces are extra). This easy decision had us ordered and excited within seconds.


The food is presented as a layered mountain of meat and vegetables. We still can’t work out if this is the eighth wonder of the world or slightly vulgar looking. Either way, we’ve never seen anything like it!

Just before digging in, we got a few strange looks for sniffing the gravy boat a little too much, the rich bone-marrow gravy was quite possibly the most delicious thing we’ve ever smelt.

The pork had a lovely flavour but was a little bit dry for us even after adding some of the heavenly-smelling gravy. The lamb and beef, however, were both brilliant. Great flavours and seriously juicy. If we had to pick one, we’d say the beef was the best meat in the pile.


After the top layer of meat, we got down to the vegetables. They were all boiled and slightly flavourless which was disappointing considering how good the meat was. The duck fat-roasted potatoes (as you know, a particularly important element for one of our Roasters) were lovely and fluffy on the inside and nice and crispy outside so no bones to pick there.

Speaking of bones (yes we’re back on it again), the bone-marrow gravy tasted just as good (maybe even better) than it smelt. The flavour was amazing and we all couldn’t get enough of it. We honestly think you should all go there just for this gravy.

24 Great Windmill St, London W1D 7LG Value – £16-20

The one line roast:

Great meat and gravy (did we mentioned the gravy yet?) but let down by the vegetables.